|Ownership||You own the vehicle and get to keep it as long as you want it.||You don’t own the vehicle. You get to use it but must return it at the end of the lease unless you decide to buy it.|
|Up-front costs||They include the cash price or a down payment, taxes, registration and other fees.||They typically include the first month’s payment, a refundable security deposit, a down payment, taxes, registration and other fees.|
|Monthly payments||Loan payments are usually higher than lease payments because you’re paying off the entire purchase price of the vehicle, plus interest and other finance charges, taxes, and fees.||Lease payments are almost always lower than loan payments because you’re paying only for the vehicle’s depreciation during the lease term, plus interest charges (called rent charges), taxes, and fees.|
|Early termination||You can sell or trade in your vehicle at any time. If necessary, money from the sale can be used to pay off any loan balance.||If you end the lease early, early-termination charges can be almost as costly as sticking with the contract.|
|Vehicle return||You’ll have to deal with selling or trading in your car when you decide you want a different one.||You can return the vehicle at lease-end, pay any end-of-lease costs, and walk away.|
|Future value||The vehicle will depreciate but its cash value is yours to use as you like.||On the plus side, its future value doesn’t affect you financially. On the negative side, you don’t have any equity in the vehicle.|
|Mileage||You’re free to drive as many miles as you want. (But higher mileage lowers the vehicle’s trade-in or resale value.)||Most leases limit the number of miles you may drive, often 12,000 to 15,000 per year. (You can negotiate a higher mileage limit.) You’ll have to pay charges for exceeding your limits.|
|Excessive wear and tear||You don’t have to worry about wear and tear, but it could lower the vehicle’s trade-in or resale value.||Most leases hold you responsible. You’ll have to pay extra charges for exceeding what is considered normal wear and tear.|
|End of term||At the end of the loan term (typically four to five years), you have no further payments and you have built equity to help pay for your next vehicle.||At the end of the lease (typically two to four years), you’ll have to finance the purchase of the car or lease or buy another.|
|Customizing||The vehicle is yours to modify or customize as you like.||Because the lessor wants the vehicle returned in sellable condition, any modifications or custom parts you add will need to be removed before you return the car. If there is any residual damage, you’ll have to pay to have it fixed.|
ALUMINUM FRONT FENDERS AND HOOD
Consisting of aluminum front fenders with air outlets, an aluminum hood with air vents and an aluminum roof panel, these strong yet lightweight body panels lower both the Lancer Evolution’s body weight and its center of gravity for improved weight distribution, balance and handling. Plus, the vented hood and front fenders work together to pull heat from the engine compartment, which optimizes cooling and performance. So they not only look cool, they help the Evolution keep its cool-even in the most demanding conditions.
ACTIVE YAW CONTROL
Active Yaw Control (AYC) varies engine torque between the left and right rear wheels to give the Lancer Evolution precise traction and handling in just about any condition. Utilizing numerous vehicle sensors to detect cornering speed, lateral acceleration, steering angle and more, AYC instantly directs torque to the rear wheels with the most traction at any given moment for unparalleled cornering, acceleration, performance and control.
2.0L TURBOCHARGED MIVEC ENGINE
Combining a 2.0-liter all-aluminum block and head with a powerful turbocharger and advanced MIVEC technology, the Lancer Evolution boasts 291 horsepower – 303 hp on the Final Edition – and the kind of performance that eats bigger, thirstier V6s for breakfast.
RESPONSIVE SPORT-TUNED HANDLING
The true test of any performance car is how it feels in the corners. From track-inspired rack-and-pinion steering to available Eibach® springs and Blistein® shocks to a fine-tuned MacPherson strut front- and multi-link rear suspension, the Lancer Evolution sets a new standard for stock performance.
TWIN CLUTCH SST TRANSMISSION
Twin Clutch Sportronic® Shift Transmission provides connectivity and the power efficiency of a manual gearbox along with remarkably smooth, quick automatic shifting. Choose from Normal, Sport or S-Sport or take full control using the sequential shifter or paddle shifters. Lancer Evolution MR only.
When the mercury begins to rise outside, it’s common for car engines to get overly toasty too. Thankfully, there are plenty of things you can do to make sure a temporary jump in temperature doesn’t lead to long-lasting trouble. To help you know what to do if your car overheats, here are 5 easy steps.
- First, always carry an extra bottle of coolant (also called antifreeze) in your car, as well as a jug of water. Engines typically overheat because the coolant’s low, so topping it off will usually solve the problem. Failing that, water will also temporarily do the trick. Plus, that water could be a lifesaver on long, sweltering summer drives. Just don’t drink it all.
- When you see the temperature gauge creeping into the red or a notification light glowing, immediately turn off your air conditioner (since the AC puts a lot of strain on your engine).
- If the problem persists, crank your heater up to full blast. It could make the next few miles a pretty brutal experience, but the transfer of heat away from the engine might just save its life.
- Should the preceding steps fail, pull over as soon as you can. Turn off the engine. If you can pop the hood from the driver’s seat, do so — but don’t risk opening it by hand until the engine has cooled, especially if you see steam wafting off the engine. It typically takes a solid 30 minutes for an engine to cool down enough for it to be safe to handle. If you’d rather let a professional handle the problem, it’s time to call for a tow truck.
- Once the engine has cooled, check the coolant tank. It’s usually a translucent plastic tank near the radiator. If the coolant tank is empty, you may have sprung a leak. Take a quick look under the car. If you notice a drip or puddle, chances are the coolant tank is leaking.
Have you ever watched cars buzzing past you with sooty fumes streaming from their tailpipe? It’s obvious exhaust fumes cause air pollution, but it’s much less apparent that they’re wasting energy at the same time. The exhaust is a mixture of hot gases pumping out at speed and all the energy it contains—the heat and the motion(kinetic energy)—is disappearing uselessly into the atmosphere. Wouldn’t it be neat if the engine could harness that waste power somehow to make the car go faster? That’s exactly what a turbocharger does.
Car engines make power by burning fuel in sturdy metal cans called cylinders. Air enters each cylinder, mixes with fuel, and burns to make a small explosion that drives a piston out, turning the shafts and gears that spin the car’s wheels. When the piston pushes back in, it pumps the waste air and fuel mixture out of the cylinder as exhaust. The amount of power a car can produce is directly related to how fast it burns fuel. The more cylinders you have and the bigger they are, the more fuel the car can burn each second and (theoretically at least) the faster it can go.
One way to make a car go faster is to add more cylinders. That’s why super-fast sports cars typically have eight and twelve cylinders instead of the four or six cylinders in a conventional family car. Another option is to use a turbocharger, which forces more air into the cylinders each second so they can burn fuel at a faster rate. A turbocharger is a simple, relatively cheap, extra bit of kit that can get more power from the same engine!
When debating between all season tires vs summer tires, the differences between the two types can be easily misunderstood. Depending on your vehicle, driving conditions, and personal preferences, one may be a better option than the other. When choosing between summer and all season tires, it helps to understand the benefits and limitations of each.
An all-season tire offers a balance of capabilities, providing acceptable performance in wet and dry conditions, as well as traction in snow.
Built for the average driver, all-season tires have moderate tread depths and rubber compounds that are engineered to provide longer tread life than summer tires, which have shallower tread depths. All-season tires are offered in many types/models, sizes, load capacities, and speed ratings for use on a wide variety of vehicles from economy cars to sedans to mini-vans to pickup trucks. They tend to provide ride comfort, handling, and other performance attributes suitable for most drivers.
All-season tires perform well in warm weather, but they may offer less grip than summer tires, sacrificing some steering, braking, and cornering capabilities. This trade off is necessary for all-season tires to be able to provide acceptable performance in light winter conditions and provide longer tread life.
All-season tires are capable of providing traction in winter, but are not the best tire to use in extreme winter driving conditions. Drivers who encounter extreme winter weather may want to consider switching to snow tires in the winter.
Because all-season tires offer a blend of summer and winter performance, they are often a good option for drivers in moderate climates and driving conditions.
Summer tires are ideal for high performance vehicles, and are built for speed and agility. They offer increased responsiveness, cornering, and braking capabilities. This is typically attributed to specialized tread patterns and rubber compounds that allow for improved precision on the road. The tread patterns of summer tires have less grooving and put more rubber in contact with the road. They are designed to provide maximum road-holding grip. The tread compounds of summer tires are designed to remain more flexible, allowing for better traction and grip. Summer tires may have shallower tread depths that allow for more stability when pushed closer to their limits.
Dimensional characteristics (such as the tire’s width, aspect ratio, and rim diameter), speed capability, and other design features make summer tires more suitable and capable for increased performance in wet and dry conditions on high-performance, sports-oriented vehicles. Surprising to some, summer tires provide better performance in wet driving conditions, thanks to unique tread patterns that help evacuate water and resist hydroplaning.
When it comes to winter driving, all-season tires may be more suitable than summer tires, given their blend of summer and winter performance capabilities, but we recommend considering making the switch to winter tires to get optimal traction and performance in extreme winter conditions.
It’s a decision drivers face every time they fill their cars up at the gas station.
But if you’re like many drivers, you may have decided years ago to bypass premium and buy the cheaper regular unleaded gasoline.
But have you ever asked the question — what exactly is the difference between the two octanes?
“Premium is, yes, a few octane points higher, which provides a more efficient burn in the combustion chamber,” says Bill Griffin, owner of Griffin’s Neighborhood Auto Clinic in Farmington, Michigan. “But it is a choice. Slightly better fuel economy is there, but it’s not worth the huge price gap from regular to premium.”
Most gas stations offer three octane levels: regular (about 87), mid-grade (about 89) and premium (91 to 93).
Some gas stations may offer up to five different octane ratings, including a super premium, which typically has a rating of 93. Other gas stations may call their mid-grade “plus” or “special” and their premium “super.” If you’re unsure based on the description, check the octane level.
An octane rating, according to Exxon Mobile, measures the fuel’s ability to resist engine knocking, or pinging. The higher the octane, the greater resistance the fuel has to pinging during combustion.
No matter what the climate is like where you live, keeping the temperature comfortable inside your car often means battling foggy windows. If you live in a climate with cold winters, staying warm in your chilly car means turning on the heater — and battling the resultant fog on the inside of your windows. In warm, humid areas, turning on the AC can cause the opposite issue — fog blurring your windows from the outside.
The reason for foggy windows has to do with temperature and the air’s moisture content. On a cold day, any moisture in the air inside your car — from passengers exhaling, from snow on your boots, etc. — turns to condensation when it hits air next to the windows that’s below a certain temperature, called the dew point. The condensation is what makes your car’s windows appear foggy. On a hot, humid day, the opposite happens, when the muggy air outside your car reaches the dew point against your windshield after it’s cooled by your AC system.
Whether the fog is on the inside or the outside of your windows, any time you can’t see clearly in all directions, it’s dangerous. So, it’s important to know how to make sure your windows are clear — no matter the weather.
When It’s Colder Outside Than Inside Your Car…
When you’re dealing with cold weather outside and you turn on the heater inside your car, the fog typically will start to form on the inside of your car windows. Here are some options to clear those windows up:
- For a quick fix: Lower the temperature inside your car rapidly by turning on the defrost vent with cool air or cracking a window; don’t turn on the heat. This will make the inside of your car cooler and help reduce the fog. Also, turn on your car’s rear-window defogger to help clear up the back window. Though this is a fast and effective method, it could leave you shivering.
- For a more comfortable solution: Lifehacker advises those who want to be snug and warm while driving to turn on the defroster and blow warm air across the windshield to evaporate the accumulating moisture. If your vehicle’s ventilation system has a recirculate feature, turn it off. When this feature is on, your car’s heat or AC reuses the air inside the car, instead of continually pulling in air from outside. If you’re trying to defog the windows in cold weather, you want your car to continually take in the dry air. (Not sure if your car has recirculation? Look for a button on the dashboard that has an arrow going in a circle or a semi-circle. Sometimes, it will feature an icon of a car with this type of arrow inside it.)
- Plan ahead: Keep your car glass as clean as possible — on the inside and the outside. That way, when your glass fogs up, you know the problem isn’t just a dirty windshield. You may also want to think about using a product that you can spray or wipe onto the inside of your windows in order to help prevent fog from forming.
When It’s Warmer Outside than In Your Car…
When the temperature and moisture level outside are greater than inside the car, moisture will condense on the exterior of the car glass. In this situation, the trick is to increase the temperature on the inside of the car to accumulate less moisture on the outside. Keep the following tips in mind:
- For a quick fix: Use your windshield wipers. This will help get rid of the condensation until you’ve balanced out the temperature.
- Warm up your car: Turn down the AC to the lowest (least-cool) setting to increase the temperature without it becoming too uncomfortable. If this doesn’t work, turn the AC off completely.
- Leave recirculation off: As stated above, it’s a good idea to turn off your car’s recirculation feature to battle foggy windows, so the temperature and moisture levels in your car begin to equalize with those outside.
Trying to see through fogged-up windows is a driving hazard, but with these tips, you can help increase your driving safety—no matter what the weather.