|Ownership||You own the vehicle and get to keep it as long as you want it.||You don’t own the vehicle. You get to use it but must return it at the end of the lease unless you decide to buy it.|
|Up-front costs||They include the cash price or a down payment, taxes, registration and other fees.||They typically include the first month’s payment, a refundable security deposit, a down payment, taxes, registration and other fees.|
|Monthly payments||Loan payments are usually higher than lease payments because you’re paying off the entire purchase price of the vehicle, plus interest and other finance charges, taxes, and fees.||Lease payments are almost always lower than loan payments because you’re paying only for the vehicle’s depreciation during the lease term, plus interest charges (called rent charges), taxes, and fees.|
|Early termination||You can sell or trade in your vehicle at any time. If necessary, money from the sale can be used to pay off any loan balance.||If you end the lease early, early-termination charges can be almost as costly as sticking with the contract.|
|Vehicle return||You’ll have to deal with selling or trading in your car when you decide you want a different one.||You can return the vehicle at lease-end, pay any end-of-lease costs, and walk away.|
|Future value||The vehicle will depreciate but its cash value is yours to use as you like.||On the plus side, its future value doesn’t affect you financially. On the negative side, you don’t have any equity in the vehicle.|
|Mileage||You’re free to drive as many miles as you want. (But higher mileage lowers the vehicle’s trade-in or resale value.)||Most leases limit the number of miles you may drive, often 12,000 to 15,000 per year. (You can negotiate a higher mileage limit.) You’ll have to pay charges for exceeding your limits.|
|Excessive wear and tear||You don’t have to worry about wear and tear, but it could lower the vehicle’s trade-in or resale value.||Most leases hold you responsible. You’ll have to pay extra charges for exceeding what is considered normal wear and tear.|
|End of term||At the end of the loan term (typically four to five years), you have no further payments and you have built equity to help pay for your next vehicle.||At the end of the lease (typically two to four years), you’ll have to finance the purchase of the car or lease or buy another.|
|Customizing||The vehicle is yours to modify or customize as you like.||Because the lessor wants the vehicle returned in sellable condition, any modifications or custom parts you add will need to be removed before you return the car. If there is any residual damage, you’ll have to pay to have it fixed.|
ALUMINUM FRONT FENDERS AND HOOD
Consisting of aluminum front fenders with air outlets, an aluminum hood with air vents and an aluminum roof panel, these strong yet lightweight body panels lower both the Lancer Evolution’s body weight and its center of gravity for improved weight distribution, balance and handling. Plus, the vented hood and front fenders work together to pull heat from the engine compartment, which optimizes cooling and performance. So they not only look cool, they help the Evolution keep its cool-even in the most demanding conditions.
ACTIVE YAW CONTROL
Active Yaw Control (AYC) varies engine torque between the left and right rear wheels to give the Lancer Evolution precise traction and handling in just about any condition. Utilizing numerous vehicle sensors to detect cornering speed, lateral acceleration, steering angle and more, AYC instantly directs torque to the rear wheels with the most traction at any given moment for unparalleled cornering, acceleration, performance and control.
2.0L TURBOCHARGED MIVEC ENGINE
Combining a 2.0-liter all-aluminum block and head with a powerful turbocharger and advanced MIVEC technology, the Lancer Evolution boasts 291 horsepower – 303 hp on the Final Edition – and the kind of performance that eats bigger, thirstier V6s for breakfast.
RESPONSIVE SPORT-TUNED HANDLING
The true test of any performance car is how it feels in the corners. From track-inspired rack-and-pinion steering to available Eibach® springs and Blistein® shocks to a fine-tuned MacPherson strut front- and multi-link rear suspension, the Lancer Evolution sets a new standard for stock performance.
TWIN CLUTCH SST TRANSMISSION
Twin Clutch Sportronic® Shift Transmission provides connectivity and the power efficiency of a manual gearbox along with remarkably smooth, quick automatic shifting. Choose from Normal, Sport or S-Sport or take full control using the sequential shifter or paddle shifters. Lancer Evolution MR only.
No matter what the climate is like where you live, keeping the temperature comfortable inside your car often means battling foggy windows. If you live in a climate with cold winters, staying warm in your chilly car means turning on the heater — and battling the resultant fog on the inside of your windows. In warm, humid areas, turning on the AC can cause the opposite issue — fog blurring your windows from the outside.
The reason for foggy windows has to do with temperature and the air’s moisture content. On a cold day, any moisture in the air inside your car — from passengers exhaling, from snow on your boots, etc. — turns to condensation when it hits air next to the windows that’s below a certain temperature, called the dew point. The condensation is what makes your car’s windows appear foggy. On a hot, humid day, the opposite happens, when the muggy air outside your car reaches the dew point against your windshield after it’s cooled by your AC system.
Whether the fog is on the inside or the outside of your windows, any time you can’t see clearly in all directions, it’s dangerous. So, it’s important to know how to make sure your windows are clear — no matter the weather.
When It’s Colder Outside Than Inside Your Car…
When you’re dealing with cold weather outside and you turn on the heater inside your car, the fog typically will start to form on the inside of your car windows. Here are some options to clear those windows up:
- For a quick fix: Lower the temperature inside your car rapidly by turning on the defrost vent with cool air or cracking a window; don’t turn on the heat. This will make the inside of your car cooler and help reduce the fog. Also, turn on your car’s rear-window defogger to help clear up the back window. Though this is a fast and effective method, it could leave you shivering.
- For a more comfortable solution: Lifehacker advises those who want to be snug and warm while driving to turn on the defroster and blow warm air across the windshield to evaporate the accumulating moisture. If your vehicle’s ventilation system has a recirculate feature, turn it off. When this feature is on, your car’s heat or AC reuses the air inside the car, instead of continually pulling in air from outside. If you’re trying to defog the windows in cold weather, you want your car to continually take in the dry air. (Not sure if your car has recirculation? Look for a button on the dashboard that has an arrow going in a circle or a semi-circle. Sometimes, it will feature an icon of a car with this type of arrow inside it.)
- Plan ahead: Keep your car glass as clean as possible — on the inside and the outside. That way, when your glass fogs up, you know the problem isn’t just a dirty windshield. You may also want to think about using a product that you can spray or wipe onto the inside of your windows in order to help prevent fog from forming.
When It’s Warmer Outside than In Your Car…
When the temperature and moisture level outside are greater than inside the car, moisture will condense on the exterior of the car glass. In this situation, the trick is to increase the temperature on the inside of the car to accumulate less moisture on the outside. Keep the following tips in mind:
- For a quick fix: Use your windshield wipers. This will help get rid of the condensation until you’ve balanced out the temperature.
- Warm up your car: Turn down the AC to the lowest (least-cool) setting to increase the temperature without it becoming too uncomfortable. If this doesn’t work, turn the AC off completely.
- Leave recirculation off: As stated above, it’s a good idea to turn off your car’s recirculation feature to battle foggy windows, so the temperature and moisture levels in your car begin to equalize with those outside.
Trying to see through fogged-up windows is a driving hazard, but with these tips, you can help increase your driving safety—no matter what the weather.
Quick: On which side is your vehicle’s fuel door?
Must you look at the little diamond-shaped arrow on the fuel gauge EVERY time you fill up to know which side holds the fuel filler? Have you ever pulled to the fuel island to discover you’re on the wrong side? Did you utter bad words before or after you said, “Why don’t they put fuel doors on the same side of every car?!?”
The answer to that question is complicated, if not convoluted.
Based on my research into the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, I came to the conclusion (a conclusion later supported by my contacts at both the Ford Motor Company and Nissan North America) that no U.S. government regulation concerns which side on which the fuel door must be positioned. Much to the chagrin of many motorists, the fuel door can be on either side.
With no legal or marketing motivation, and scant ownership enjoyment implications, car-company engineers are free to place fuel doors on whichever side offers the easiest packaging, according to Ford spokesman Mark Schirmer. He added that there’s not enough room — and no demand — for dual fuel doors.
Americans prefer left-mounted fuel doors, said Schirmer, referencing a Ford study. A driver’s-side fuel door makes it easier for drivers to place the car’s left fender close to fuel pump. Still, fuel door location is typically not part of the buying decision, added Schirmer.
Those in Japan, India, the United Kingdom, Australia, Hong Kong, New Zealand, and countries in southern Africa drive on the left side of the road and sit on the right side of the car, and it appears they prefer right-mounted fuel doors, given the tendencies of cra manufacturers. For at least 25 years, the conventional wisdom among auto writers has been that Europeans like right-side doors. However, when I posed this to my industry co-horts, no car company would speculate if or why that might be true.
Nissan, like most automakers, produces some vehicles with left fuel doors and some with right doors.
“The placement of the fuel door is mainly a factor of fuel tank design, location and underbody packaging,” Nissan’s Steve Yaeger wrote in an email. “With all of the structure and components located underneath the vehicle, (engineers) would quickly encounter restrictions in trying to route the filler tube to the same side on every vehicle.”
If mechanisms such as a “big, honkin’ speaker” must be placed on the left side, engineers put the fuel door on the right, notes Schirmer.
The bottom line: Fuel door position is not a random choice, but if engineers have a good reason to place fuel doors on the right, that’s where they go.
If you can’t remember the location of your fuel door, don’t be ashamed to look at the little diamond-arrow on your fuel gauge … BEFORE you pull up to the pump.
Proper maintenance of your car can be crucial for its long life and safe operation. Your tires are one of the most important parts of your car; literally the place where the rubber meets the road. Regular care and maintenance are crucial to the safe and reliable performance of your vehicle.
The air pressure inside your tires needs to be checked regularly to help ensure your vehicle runs smoothly and efficiently. Underinflated tires can contribute to increased wear and tear, and also reduce fuel efficiency, says Edmunds. Tires can lose air in a variety of ways, including a tiny hole, a leak on the the valve stem or an issue with the wheel on which it’s mounted, according to Popular Mechanics. In addition, changing temperatures can affect the air pressure of your tires. Tire pressure can vary 1-2 pounds per square inch (psi) for every 10-degree difference in ambient temperature, according to Goodyear. Keep in mind, it can be difficult to tell if a radial tire needs air just by looking at it, so tires should be checked.
When Should I Check?
Tires warm up when your car is moving. Air expands inside a “hot” tire, so the air pressure reading will likely not be accurate for a hot tire. Tire air pressure should be checked once a month when the tires are cold, says Edmunds. But, you may want to consider checking your tire pressure more frequently in the following instances, which may make the affect the pressure:
- If you run over a sharp object, like a nail, that can puncture the rubber.
- If you strike a curb or other object.
- If the weather suddenly changes from warm to cold.
If your car has a tire pressure sensor and the light on the dashboard is illuminated, you should check the tire pressure immediately on all four tires, says Bridgestone.
How Should I Check?
Edmunds recommends some simple steps for properly checking tire pressure:
Step 1. Purchase a tire gauge. Tire gauges are small enough to fit in your glove box, and they’re a handy tool to have. The newer digital tire gauges can be more accurate — and easier to read — than the older ones. If you don’t want to purchase a gauge, you can go to the air pump at a gas station, which usually has a gauge on the hose. That’s convenient, because if you find that your tires need air, you’re already there.
Step 2. Discover the proper air pressure for your car. Tire pressure is measured in pounds per square inch, or psi. You can often find the right psi for your vehicle on a yellow sticker inside the driver’s-side door jamb, or you can consult your owner’s manual. Remember, the ideal air pressure may be different for the front and rear tires.
Step 3. Remove the air valve cap from your tire. It’s easy to lose this little valve cap. Be sure to place it in your pocket or someplace where it will not roll away or quickly disappear.
Step 4. Press the tire gauge against the open valve stem. You will hear a hiss of air as you press down. Don’t be concerned; this is normal.
Step 5. Read the air pressure gauge. The number will appear on the dial or digital screen on the tire gauge. Compare this number with the recommended tire pressure for the tire. If it’s too low, you can add air. If the pressure is too high, you can let air out of the tire.
Windshield wipers are an often overlooked part of your car’s safety system. If your windshield wipers are not working properly, it can be difficult to see when it rains or snows. Faulty windshield wiper blades can smear your windshield, creating visibility hazards. So, it’s important to make sure your wiper blades are in good shape.
What Needs To Be Done:
Windshield wiper blades need to be inspected and replaced, if needed, on a regular basis.
Why Do It?
- Windshield wiper blades are made out of rubber, which can wear even with limited use.
- By being certain that your windshield wiper blades are in optimum condition, you are ensuring the safety of your vehicle and its passengers.
- If you are driving your car in pouring rain, snow or sleet, worn-out wiper blades can impede the wipers’ ability to clean the windshield, which can limit your visibility.
- Making sure your windshield wipers are newly inspected and replaced, if necessary, can help ensure safety.
The frequency at which your windshield wiper blades need replacement depends, in part, on the conditions where you live and drive.Some general information is listed below, but always defer to your car owner’s manual and the information that comes with your wiper blades for advice on maintenance.
|Sunny, Hot Climate||At least every six months||At least once yearly|
|Even if you use your wipers very little, the hot sun can damage the rubber on your wiper blades, making the wipers unusable,according to Autos.yahoo.com.|
|Cold Climate||At least every six months||At least once yearly|
|According to Autos.com, the grit and salt used in cold climates can wear out the rubber wiper blades quickly.|
|Dusty And Sandy Regions||Every several months||Every six months to a year|
|If you regularly drive in dusty or sandy areas, even if you don’t use your wipers often, grit and sand can accumulate around and on the wiper blade, resulting in fast wear.|
How to Do It:
Changing your wiper blades is simple. If you’re unsure about your wiper blade-changing abilities, it’s always a good idea to leave it to the professionals. This is something that is often done when you take your car in for an oil change, so ask your car dealership or quick-lube shop about it the next time you go in. But, if you want to do it yourself, you can follow these steps:
Step 1. Remove the old wiper.
Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield and depress the small tab on the underside of the wiper where it meets the wiper arm. When the tab is depressed, slide the wiper blade off the arm by pulling the center toward the bottom of the arm.
Step 2. Line up the new wiper blade with the arm.
Move the hook on the arm over the plastic clip on the new wiper blade.
Step 3. Pull it tight.
Pull the wiper blade tight onto the arm. You will hear a clicking sound when it clicks into place. Now, simply lower the arm slowly back onto the windshield and repeat this process on the other wiper arm.
Rally Car racing is the ultimate test to a cars endurance. Rallying pushes its vehicles through rain and snow, day and night, and sometimes hundreds of miles of racing. In order to succeed through these kinds of conditions, racers need to be smart about the way that they drive and maintain their vehicles.
Wyatt Knox is a US Rally Racing champion and expert on all things automotive. Knox currently works at Team O’neil Rally School in New Hampshire as a Special Projects director and Chief Instructor. Team O’neil is regarded as a top leader in North American rally education. The school was called “the best rally school in the country” by Road and Track.
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